Through The Past, Scholarly (March 2018 Wine Product Reviews)

For the most recent batch of wine product sample roundup articles, I’ve been focusing on reducing the pile of wine book sample copies currently littering the floor of my home office. And so for March, I am slowly whittling away at said pile by offering up two more hardcover tomes for your vinous reading consideration. You still read books, right?

image: amazon.com

Firstly, we have French Wine: A History by Rod Phillips (University of California Press, 319 pages, about $30). That’s an unassuming title for a book with such an ambitious scope. Actually, its scope is bordering on insanity. Beginning from roughly 2500 years ago, Ottawa-based historian Phillips carves up the topical elephant into almost-digestible-sized time period chunks: the period before 1000 CE, the Middle Ages, through to the Enlightenment, the onset of the World Wars, etc. I say “almost” digestible because even each of those chapters is sizeable in terms of the rich historical content and context of the topic (remember, wine involves chemistry, historical events, economics, farming….).

The ground zero / linchpin moment of French Wine if there is one, after which all is forever changed, seems to be the phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s. Like the rootstocks of its precious vines, nothing in the French wine world was ever quite the same after the country’s vineyards were decimated by that little louse.

All of this is told in dense, matter-of-fact prose, but Phillips isn’t afraid to call out others’ opinions (even somewhat challenging the venerable Hugh Johnson at one point). It’s not a fast or particularly easy read, but ultimately a worthwhile one. And its conclusion is appropriately bittersweet: France is growing fewer grape vines, producing fewer bottles, and drinking less wine than in its historical apexes, and yet the standard-bearer wines (in terms of quality and prices) are still at the top of the global game; and while we may be seeing a dip overall, the country’s vinous development has been anything but uniform, as French Wine dutifully shows us…

image: amazon.com

Secondly, there’s Chianti Classico: The Search for Tuscany’s Noblest Wine by Bill Nesto MW & Frances Di Savino (also University of California Press, who presumably enjoy sending me sample books; 360 pages, about $39).

I have a few reservations about this book, though I suspect in time I will soften on those, considering that partners Nesto and Di Savino have crafted the most complete Chianti overview that has probably ever existed. Chianti Classico is part Chianti history class, part overview of the modern region/geography/winemaking, part review of some of its key and autherntically-minded producers, and part love letter to central Tuscany. This is a narrative that is ultimately scholarly, and quite informative.

But… it’s also a narrative that lacks a sense of cohesion. The style of prose is almost quaint, as if it came from an older time, in a charming way. That will endear Chianti Classico to some readers, and probably turn off others. And the price isn’t exactly on the cheap side. Having said all of that, it’s also a book that doesn’t have to be consumed linearly; and given its depth (history, geography, kick-ass ancient maps, etc.), it’s likely also one that can be consulted many, many times in the future.

Cheers!

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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Through The Past, Scholarly (March 2018 Wine Product Reviews) from 1WineDude.com
– for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
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Wine School Newsletter for March 2018

MARCH NEWSLETTER

ANNOUNCING OUR NEW SOMMELIER CERTIFICATIONS

You can now earn a specialized sommelier certification in a single month.

This Spring, the National Wine School is unveiling a bold new qualification for the wine trade: the Single Semester Sommelier Program (SSSP).

The program offers a versatile curriculum tailored to the professional needs of each student. New qualifications include Certified Winemaker, Spanish Wine Specialist, International Wine Scholar, Certified Sommelier-Instructor, Wine Law Specialist, and many more.

Spanish Wine Specialist Program

In April, we are offering the Spanish Wine Specialist.  The program is open to everyone, even if you haven’t taken the Core Sommelier Program yet.  It also can be applied towards your Advanced Sommelier Certificate or even your Master-Level Sommelier certification.

If the idea of  being immersed in Spanish wine sounds like an excellent way to spend your Monday evenings, check out the program here: https://www.vinology.com/class/spanish-wine-specialist/2018-04-16/

PHILLY WINE WEEK

Our classes for Philly Wine Week sold out a few months ago. However, there are a few other cool events happening.

Royal Boucherie is hosting a Jura Wine Dinner,  Kensington Quarters is running a “New York Dolls” class, and there is even a DIY Vermouth class. We have the short list right here: https://www.vinology.com/philly-wine-week/

WINE REVIEWS

For more reviews and expanded wine notes, check out the Wine Report.  To locate wines, head over to the Wine Finder app.

Reserve Mont Redon 2016 Cotes du Rhone Rosé

This wine rolls in the glass with a shocking pink-panther hue. The nose is fresh sage and wild strawberry (sauvage fraise for all you Francophiles out there). On the palate, it goes towards the one type of orange my wife hates (blood orange, how was I to know?) and a finish of crushed violets. As the bottle warms up, quince and fresh pear contribute to the delight.

I suggest serving with grilled vegetable tossed with olive oil, basil, and some sliced almonds.

Bottom line: 91 Points and $8.99 in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Stores

 

Bodegas Montecillo 2009 Rioja Gran Reserva

Montecillo is a standard in the world of Rioja, and I’ve reviewed their wines on many occasions in the past decade. Here in PA, the Gran Reserva’s often come into the market sub $20, which is a crazy price for such wines.

This bottle offers up scents and flavors of an old farmhouse: firewood, saddle, and dried flowers. The palate is soft and rich, with notes of dark fruit and earth. The finish turns towards espresso and allspice.

Bottom line: 90 Points and $19.99 in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Stores

 

Concha y Toro 2015 “Marques de Casa Concha” Carmenere

Marques de Casa Concha is one of the only brands I trust to work with Carmenere. That is largely due to the varietal fingerprint of this grape. Those notes of tobacco are extreme. They can easily push towards dirty-old-ashtray or wet-cigarette flavors which are a real turn off. Cooler high-altitude regions like Peumo –where this Carmenere is sourced from– can push that leafy note towards something closer to mint.

On the nose, a big whomp of dark fruit and smokey eucalyptus. The palate is elegant and muscular, with soft notes of chocolate pushing against velvet tannins and supple cassis. A savage and earthy finish adds some intrigue.

Bottom line: 90 Points and $14.99 in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Stores

Vine Cliff Winery 2014 Chardonnay Los Carneros

Vine Cliff has a beautiful 20-acre vineyard on the Napa side of Carneros, and it’s a Chardonnay Shangri La. The vines are 20 years old and a healthy array of modern and old-school clones.

Honeysuckle and cream on the nose with a deep ripe pear note. Medium to full-bodied, the butterfat richness is balanced with an undercurrent of fresh acidity that rises to the surface like a caramel apple. The finish moves towards vanilla and cinnamon.

Bottom Line: 91 Points and $19.99 in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Stores

Villa Cafaggio 2013 Chianti Classico

When writing the review of this exceptional wine, I realized every word I used started with a “C”, so here you go:

Cafaggio Chianti Classico has aromas of cherry and cinnamon, with a chewy palate of cardamon and cassis. The finish offers up classic varietal fingerprints and a note of Chamomile. Cheerio!

Bottom line: 90 Points and $14.99 in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Stores

Poggio Stella 2011 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva

In the glass, this shows up ruby-red with aromas of wildflowers and quince. A note of burnt leather is layered into a spicey attack that ends with fennel and cherry. The texture is lush despite the delicate freshness and medium-bodied frame. There is a touch of age on this wine, coming out as orange marmalade and toasted almond on the finish. An outstanding Sangiovese.

Bottom line: 90 Points and $19.99 in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Stores

Chateau Los Boldos 2015 Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas of fig and cigar box are followed by a nice whiff of tobacco. A medium weight wine with plenty of grip and extraction, notes of green olive and graphite show this to be a pitch-perfect Cabernet Sauvignon. Decadent flavors of cherry coulis, bitter chocolate, and eucalyptus put this beauty into the “must drink” category.

Bottom line: 92 Points and $9.99 in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Stores

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Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 12, 2018

So, like, what is this stuff, anyway? I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes with you via twitter (limited to 140-ish characters). They are meant to be quirky, fun, and easily-digestible reviews of currently available wines. Below is a wrap-up of those twitter wine reviews from the past week (click here for the skinny on how to read them), along with links to help you find these wines, so that you can try them for yourself. Cheers!

• 12 Rodney Strong Brothers Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley): Still big, still fruity, still spicy, still brawny, still smooth, & still laughing at your paltry attempts to question its might. $75 A- >>find this wine<<
• 16 Sterling Vineyards Blanc de Blancs (California): Robust, chalky, and will get the job done liek a good soldier when deployed onto the front lines of the aperitif zone. $25 B >>find this wine<<
• 14 Weingut Winter Dittelsheim Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen): Winter is coming, and if it’s as steely and racy as this, you’d better bundle up… and bring stemware… $NA B+ >>find this wine<<
• 06 Taron Reserva (Rioja): A lot of modernly classic – or is that classically modern? – Spanish style for not a whole lot of your previous coinage. $18 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 14 Brancaia Tre (Toscana): Sleekly modern, but never betraying the soul of its vibrant and sunny Tuscan roots, either. Also, it wants some flank steak. $23 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 16 Chateau Garamache Rose (Cotes du Provence): Like watermelon? How about when it’s served up fresh on slate and flint charger plates? $NA B+ >>find this wine<<
• 16 Ferraton Pere & Fils Samorens Rose (Cotes du Rhone): When you want your cherry flavors to be DEEP; just don’t expect a boisterous aromatic conversation. $12 B >>find this wine<<
• 04 Blason Louis Graves Bordeaux (Graves): Fourteen years *young*; and it hasn’t lost one jot of its plummy, spicy edginess, either. $25 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 12 Blason Louis Graves Bordeaux Blanc (Graves): Sporting riper, fleshier stone fruits than you might be expecting; in this case, the surprise is the good kind. $22 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 16 Bird In Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir (Adelaide Hills): The hills are alive… in this case, with the textural earthiness of brambly red berries. $18 B >>find this wine<<

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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 12, 2018 from 1WineDude.com
– for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-12-2018/

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First Coffee, Then Tannins (Antonelli Montefalco Recent Releases)

Filipo Antonelli

It’s a wet, chilly, grey Winter morning in San Marco, a locality that sits just outside of Italy’s Montefalco and the ridiculously-well-named town of Bastardo. And I’ve had to wait in the damp cold for a short bit, because Filippo Antonelli is a bit late for our appointment at his family’s winery (hey, welcome to Umbria, right?). And that’s pretty much the only slightly-negative thing that you’ll read about Antonelli over the next few minutes… but let’s set the stage with a little bit more detail before we get into the effusive wine recommendation stuff…

Filippo opens up the Antonelli tasting room, which sits on a hill across from the old family house/cellar/former winery, and starts to bring the charmingly imposing place to life, switching on the lights, and asking me “would you like a coffee?”

I tell him no, grazie, I just had plenty of java at my hotel, so I’m good.

After a bit of a pause, he turns towards the espresso machine longingly, then back to me. “Do you mind if I have one, then, before we get started?” And that’s one of those moments where you just love Italy.

Anyway, Filipo then gives me the lowdown on the Antonelli biz. He co-owns (since 1986) the family company along with his cousins, with the Umbria property being from his father’s side (and formerly, for about six centuries, being the Summer residence of bishops – part of the fact that Umbria was a portion of the Vatican state until the Eighteenth Century). His great grandfather Francesco was a lawyer, who purchased the estate in 1881. At that time, it was typical Umbrian farming fare; a mix of vines, olive trees, pig farms, and wheat, with the wine being sold in bulk and crop-sharing being the norm. After the advent of the DOC in 1979, they began bottling their own wine, and now release about 300,000 bottles a year from 50 hectares of vines (and still farm olives, wheat, spelt, chick peas, and host agritourism (that is an actualy word, by the way) on roughly 170 hectares of land).

A new subterranean winery was built in 2001. And from it comes perhaps some of the most elegantly-crafted Sagrantino available on the planet…

The current winemaking at Antonelli is a team effort between consulting winemaker Paolo Salvi, resident Oenologist Massimiliano Caburazzi, vineyard consultant and Ruggero Mazzilli, and vineyard manager Alessio Moretti. What’s in their bottles suggests that they are doing just about everything right.

2016 Antonelli San Marco ‘Trebium’ Trebbiano Spoletino Spoleto (Umbria, $20)

The whites of Monteflaco are often overshadowed by their much more, uhm, robust red brethren. But it’s one of the regional white DOCs – Spoleto – that is among the area’s most vinously exciting. italy’s maddening penchant for naming every other genetically-unrelated white grape trebbiano aside, the Spoletino version can be fascinating stuff. Here, we get friendly citric and herbal/floral notes, with more serious hints of brioche and pith. It’s tight and young, revealing little (and even that after several minutes in the glass), but the structure and aging potential is apparent right off the bat.

2012 Antonelli San Marco Montefalco Rosso Riserva (Umbria, $33)

The Montefalco middle-child brother, this classification sits between the more instantly-appealing Montefalco Rosso and Sagrantino designations. Antonelli only produces their Riserva line in better vintages, and it sees longer wood aging than their Rosso (about 1.5 years). The blend is about 70% Sangiovese (in this case, selected from their oldest vines), 15% Sagrantino, and 15% Montepulciano. Sangio arrived in the area ’round about 1800, and despite the continental climate does well in the region’s ample sunshine. Interestingly, and thankfully unlike its Trebbiano, there’s no specific sangiovese variant that defines Montefalco’s plantings. Anyway, this red combines freshness and earthiness in a classy, spicy, plummy presentation. The mouthfeel is, at turns, full of tart cherry flavors and fleshier, riper plums, and finishes with hints of citrus peel and even clay (and I mean this in a very good, pair-it-with-flank-steak kind of way).

2012 Antonelli San Marco Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, $43)

Now we get to the meat of the meal. Sagrantino isn’t a easy grape to get your head (or tongue, or gums) around, particularly when it’s young and full of burly tannins, burly acids, and burly alcohol. Antonelli has managed to set a standard on how elegant a Sagrantino can be upon release, without going overboard trying to completely tame its youthful unruliness. This is immediately complex stuff, with ample black cherry, tobacco, leather, and mineral aromas. In the mouth, all of the requisite structure for aging is there, along with power, but it never gets overbearing. Give it ten years, and thank me later.

2010 Antonelli San Marco “Chiusa di Pannone” Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, $NA)

I’ve been trying, since tasting this wine, to come up with reasons for not considering it one of the best young Sagrantinos that I’ve ever tasted, and despite the effort of trying to prove the negative corollary, I keep coming up short so I’m going to give up and just call this release the real deal. The wine is sourced from 1990s plantings that sit at about 400 meters elevation, helping to tame the sun-ripening and heat during the growing season. The result is about as gorgeously kick-ass (think Michelle Yeoh) as Sagrantino gets; graphite, leather, earth, tobacco spices, red plums, black cherries, and a long, fleshy, grippy, stunning palate expression. I took a bottle home, which, given how ridiculously behind on sample tastings (and storage space) I am, is about as high a praise as I can offer a wine these days, I suppose.

Cheers!

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Copyright © 2016. Originally at First Coffee, Then Tannins (Antonelli Montefalco Recent Releases) from 1WineDude.com
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Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 5, 2018

So, like, what is this stuff, anyway? I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes with you via twitter (limited to 140-ish characters). They are meant to be quirky, fun, and easily-digestible reviews of currently available wines. Below is a wrap-up of those twitter wine reviews from the past week (click here for the skinny on how to read them), along with links to help you find these wines, so that you can try them for yourself. Cheers!

• 17 Steele Cabernet Franc Rose (Lake County): Deftly crafted, watermelon cocktail with sprigs of citrus rind and basil carefully appointed along the rim. $17 B >>find this wine<<
• NV J Vineyards Brut Rose (Russian River Valley): Arguably has never been more engaging, complete, developed, and balanced. More, please! $45 A- >>find this wine<<
• 15 Troon Vineyard GSM (Rogue Valley): A rogue’s gallery of three of Rhone’s red superstars, and the term “lovable” can and should be applied to each one of them here. $25 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 16 Domaine du Garde Temps Cotes de Provence Tourbillon Old Vines Rose (Provence): What it lacks in overt bombast, it more than makes up for in textural intrigue. $NA B+ >>find this wine<<
• NV Warre’s Warrior Finest Reserve (Porto): Spicy, dark, powerful, almost obscenely tasty, and thoroughly unapologetic about the entire thing. $19 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 14 Montes Purple Angel Carmenere (Colchagua Valley): About as guilty of a pleasure as can be rendered from Carm; only thing missing is playing hooky from work to get a spa treatment. $65 A- >>find this wine<<
• 17 Domaine Bousquet Malbec (Tupungato): Plummy, floral, and fresh; drop your expectations, this one plays quite nicely with others at the dinner table. $13 B >>find this wine<<
• 15 Domaine Bousquet Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato): This one is almost a steal; but you probably won’t feel too guilty enjoying the ample graphite and currants action. $18 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 14 Campotondo Banditone (Orcia): Juicy, dark, chewy, and delicious. Bonus points for showing up with a heaping helping of rose petals, too. $NA B+ >>find this wine<<
• 13 Campotondo All’ Incontro Rosso (Toscana): Don’t yet love Colorino? This one might just change your mind. And if it doesn’t, what the hell is wrong with you, anyways?!?? $NA B+ >>find this wine<<

Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!

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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 5, 2018 from 1WineDude.com
– for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-5-2018/

source https://meself84.wordpress.com/2018/03/05/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-5-2018-2/

Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 5, 2018

So, like, what is this stuff, anyway? I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes with you via twitter (limited to 140-ish characters). They are meant to be quirky, fun, and easily-digestible reviews of currently available wines. Below is a wrap-up of those twitter wine reviews from the past week (click here for the skinny on how to read them), along with links to help you find these wines, so that you can try them for yourself. Cheers!

• 17 Steele Cabernet Franc Rose (Lake County): Deftly crafted, watermelon cocktail with sprigs of citrus rind and basil carefully appointed along the rim. $17 B >>find this wine<<
• NV J Vineyards Brut Rose (Russian River Valley): Arguably has never been more engaging, complete, developed, and balanced. More, please! $45 A- >>find this wine<<
• 15 Troon Vineyard GSM (Rogue Valley): A rogue’s gallery of three of Rhone’s red superstars, and the term “lovable” can and should be applied to each one of them here. $25 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 16 Domaine du Garde Temps Cotes de Provence Tourbillon Old Vines Rose (Provence): What it lacks in overt bombast, it more than makes up for in textural intrigue. $NA B+ >>find this wine<<
• NV Warre’s Warrior Finest Reserve (Porto): Spicy, dark, powerful, almost obscenely tasty, and thoroughly unapologetic about the entire thing. $19 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 14 Montes Purple Angel Carmenere (Colchagua Valley): About as guilty of a pleasure as can be rendered from Carm; only thing missing is playing hooky from work to get a spa treatment. $65 A- >>find this wine<<
• 17 Domaine Bousquet Malbec (Tupungato): Plummy, floral, and fresh; drop your expectations, this one plays quite nicely with others at the dinner table. $13 B >>find this wine<<
• 15 Domaine Bousquet Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato): This one is almost a steal; but you probably won’t feel too guilty enjoying the ample graphite and currants action. $18 B+ >>find this wine<<
• 14 Campotondo Banditone (Orcia): Juicy, dark, chewy, and delicious. Bonus points for showing up with a heaping helping of rose petals, too. $NA B+ >>find this wine<<
• 13 Campotondo All’ Incontro Rosso (Toscana): Don’t yet love Colorino? This one might just change your mind. And if it doesn’t, what the hell is wrong with you, anyways?!?? $NA B+ >>find this wine<<

Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!

Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com

Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 5, 2018 from 1WineDude.com
– for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-5-2018/

source https://meself84.wordpress.com/2018/03/05/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-5-2018/

Thoughts On Instant Pot “Wine”

Instant BAD idea in terms of fermentation vessels

A few of you intrepid 1WD readers have brought to my attention, in whoa-check-this-out-dude! fashion, the intrepid endeavors of foodie David Murphy, who recently blogged about using his popular-with-the-cool-kids Instant Pot to make wine from Welch’s Grape Juice.

I have some thoughts on this:

1. I admire the gumption, ingenuity, and persistence that Murphy displayed in making this Instant Pot wine thing actually happen. I mean, in a geeky, passionate, too-much-time-on-your-hands kind of way, this is brilliant and his tenacity and desire to learn and then put that learning into practice should be lauded.

2. No. Just… NO.

This is a bad idea for most wine lovers for many reasons, but for brevity’s sake I’m only going to focus on a couple of those reasons…

The process isn’t actually that simple.

Murphy’s instructions include what appear to be six-to-eight simple steps, but the steps are neither simple nor do they in reality number less than fifteen (that’s when I stopped counting). There are potentially serious safety implications involved in fermenting anything in a vessel (such as the Instant Pot) that isn’t built specifically for fermentation purposes (not to mention what this kind of activity would do to your device’s warranty). I mean, things can and do explode during fermentation (as someone who has previously home-brewed beer, I can attest to the potential dangers – and messes – associated with such activities).

The QPR on this activity is ridiculously, pathetically poor.

The ingredients you’ll need to make your own Instant Pot wine (not counting the Instant Pot itself, which will run you around $150) will cost you at least $25, without factoring in the cost in your personal effort (not an insane amount in this case) and time (quite a bit – check out how much waiting is involved as detailed in the instructions). Once effort and time come into the calculation, Instant Pot wine quickly loses its luster from a cost effectiveness standpoint. All of that work will net you about seven bottles of wine. Let’s be generous and say that your total cost in all of the above is something like $250. That comes out to just over $35 per bottle. You can buy a f*cking magical bottle of wine for that price point (that isn’t made from Welch’s).

Look, I’ve got nothing against the Instant Pot, and I admire the ingenuity and fun involved in this, but making wine in that thing should not be considered a viable alternative to buying quality wine.

I defy anyone reading this to produce Instant Pot wine that is better than a bottle of sub-$10 vino from Chile, Argentina, or Bulgaria. You go shopping for that stuff, and for your $200-$250, you’ll probably come home with at least two cases of decent juice for way less effort.

Cheers!

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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Thoughts On Instant Pot “Wine” from 1WineDude.com
– for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/thoughts-on-instant-pot-wine/

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